The Altai

Exploration in Southern Siberia, 9th-28th August 2012

Looking back down our route up Dzhaniktu.

Previous Expeditions

The region has been moderately well explored and documented by Russian climbers. Western, and especially British, trips are much rarer. Here's a summary of some of the previous trips we've found during our research. If you know of any that we've missed, drop us an e-mail.

First British Ascent of Mt Belukha

Reference: The Alpine Journal - AJ 1985 Vol 90 Pg 47
Main Contact: John Town
Base Camp: Ak-Kem Lake
Notable Ascents: Mt Belukha (first British Ascent)
Link: http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1985_files/AJ%201985%2047-53%20Town%20Altai.pdf 

The 1988 British Altai Expedition

Reference: The Alpine Journal - AJ 1989 109-113
Main Contact: Duncan Tunstall / Mick Fowler.
Base Camp: Ak-Kem lake at 2000m.
Notable Ascents: Mt Belukha and Tomsk ridge on Delone.
Link: http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1989-90_files/AJ%201989%20109-113%20Tunstall%20Altai.pdf

High Altai Expediton 1990

Reference: Mount Everest Foundation - MEF 21/09
Main Contact: Paul Knott
Base Camp: Ak-Kem Valley
Notable Ascents: First British Ascents of five routes around the Ak-Kem Valley. NE Ridge of the South summit of 20th October Peak (4067m), Traverse of Heroic Korea and Sapozhnikov (3950m), S-N Traverse of Razoruzheniye (3825m), E Ridge of Roerich’s Peak, descent of N face (3500m) and W ridge of Tomsk Students’ Peak (3579m)

Northern Chuisky Expedition 1997

Reference: Mount Everest Foundation - MEF 97/39
Main Contact: Paul Knott
Base Camp: Maashey Valley, Northern Chuisky Range
Climbs: First (British/American) ascents were made on: N and NE ridges of Maashey (both new routes), Burevestnik (3700m), Tamma (3800m) - both on the eastern end of the 'Maashey Wall , Ak-Tru (4044m) and Kurkurek (3989m). MEF 97/39

Adventures in the Maashey Valley

Reference: The Alpine Journal - AJ 2002 Vol 107 Pg 95
Main Contact: Michael Doyle
Base Camp: Maashey Valley,  Northern Chuisky Range 

21st Century Altai

Reference: Mount Everest Foundation - MEF 09/22
Main Contact: Tim Moss
Base Camp: South Kurai Range
Notable Ascents: Five routes within the South Kurai Range. All first British ascents, and some possible first ascents.
Link: http://thenextchallenge.org/portfolio/altai/

2010: Altai, Taban Bogdo Range, Ak Alakha

Main Contact: Michal Kleslo
Base Camp: Near to the Ukok Plateau
Notable Ascents: Taban Bogdo Range, Russian Tent (4,117m), northeast couloir; Ak Alakha Range, Ak Alakha (3,650m), east ridge.
Link: http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/russia/2010-altai-taban-bogdo-range-by/